Travel, Music, Mind & Soul

MOROCCO 2000

This is a short story how we get there. I decided even before I left to Portugal for studies that I want to go to Morocco, for sure. The opportunity came in the middle of June so I left. There were two other girls from Poland Agnieszka Bubak and Basia Jach with me. Or I have been with them, doesn´t matter at all. They were brave and probably me Also, that we managed this trip, avoiding almost any problems.

all pictures you can find here. Please excuse some english mistakes and misspelling

14th of June - we took a night bus (started at 7pm) from Braganca (northern part of Portugal, where we were studying as Erasmus Students) directly to Villa Real de St. Antonio (passing Porto, Lisboa and Faro), which lies at Algarve close to border with Spain. We have been there at 11am in the morning next day.

15th of June - we met Luca and Dorotha (our friends from Braganca, travelling round Portugal and Spain, like we did at Easter holiday the same year, but before). They knew we were coming so they waited for us at the bus station. Dorotha wanted to go with us to Morocco, just for couple of days, but Luca didn´t. So we went with a boat to Spain to Ayamonte, split there with them and started to hitchhike to Algeciras, from where are the feiries to Ceuta or Tanger in Morocco.Just three cars and we have been there. The last one took us before Huelva directly to Algeciras. Unbelieveable in southern part of Spain.

16th of June - we slept in the hostal Lavante (1100 PTE each – very cheap) and in the morning we tried to get to the closed ambassy of Morocco in algeciras. They told us that there are holidays, so it is closed till Monday. Finally they opened, but there was no ambassador. We waited for 4 hours to get that stupid visa (2500 PTE for 20 days) in a line with all the marocian people, waited for permission to work in Spain. At 1pm we had a feirie to Tangier Morocco (3500 PTE). First impression in Africa. Dirty, windy, lots of sand, guys speaking czech ??? … nichts interesantes in Tangier, big port. We walked through city disturbing from all those false guides. Finally we took a Petit taxi to train station. But we didn´t have any more money so me and Agnieszka left back to city to find out any bank or ATM to withdraw some. Basia waited with our things at the station. It is quite hard to find an ATM, all the banks were closed on Saturday, but we succeded and came back right in time, because the train departed in a 5 minutes we came. Train to Meknes was 77 DH (1 USD are app.10 DH) was nice and we met a joung teacher. First time I saw my name in the arabic language. In Meknes we took a Petit taxi to the Youth Hostel, becouse we came there quite late. In the hotels, hostels you have to pay extra money for hot shower (about 5 DH). Somebody was invited for a dinner. First tagine and omelette in Morocco. We didn´t try kus kus yet

17th of June - some kind of misunderstanding with our watches and alarm clocks woke up us two our before (at 5:30am) and we had to wait for a man who opened hostal at 9am. There was a girl from New Zealand, so we talked. Today we wanted to visit Volubilis (roman old city about 30 km from Meknes ), but first we had to get to the bus station through medina (one of the most dirty and unspoiled from turism). Bus station (like everywhere in Morocco - here expecially) was one BIG chaos. No other tourists, screaming people, guides, drivers … teribble smell. Nobody know which bus is going where. Later we find some order, but really it is something unwriteable. Bus was going only to Moulay Idriss (very religious was first who spread out islam in Morocco), no non-islamic allowed to see an altar. The centre of the first Arab dynasty. Volubilis – Roman provincial Capital The imperial road from France, Spain stopped here.It was the key location for M. Scorsese‘s film The Last Temptation of Christ. Ruins stretching for more than 1 km/square, mosaics … hot weather without water. Open daily till sunset, for only 20 DH. Nice place. Back to Meknes we asked french couple to take us. No problem, with them we had even sceneric journey along Mouley Idriss. They were living in Casablanca (I think Basia has the address). Back into medina of Meknes, Basia left for internet, me and Agnieszka took a picture (special offer –old camera, hand developing –10 DH each, but result looks very oldfashioned, doesn‘t A ?). Later on there was a procession of the masses on the main square of Meknes (Bab Mansour). First shopping of the carpets … price, about 4500 DH for khelims …uaaa … no way, later on I bought similar in Essaouira for 400 DH –still too much, but …). At about 8pm we left medina, one smuggler was still watching us and following us all way long. (just in that case not him knowing our place of stay we took a petit taxi to our hostel). Inthere we met one canadian boy travelling alone around the world, just stopping somewhere for work to earn money to meve out again somewhere else.

18th of June – early in the morning we took a taxi to CTM bus station for bus going to Rabat (the capital of Morocco). Unfortunately was full so meved to the train station. Meknes – Rabat for 53 DH. We found the HI Hostel (30 DH with bugs and lizards in the showers, girls may say) close to medina and left our things there, short trpi round the city. Over look at the ocean shore (overcrowded with people …uff). Hassan Tower, Mohammed V Mausoleum, Grand Mosque, … plus X other things. I cannot say I like Rabat. I bought a guide about Morocco – Rough guide. Recommended, very usefull. (160 DH).

19th of June – train 8:30 to Casablanca (took us just ½ an hour). At the CTM station we left our things for 5 DH and started to explore Casablanca (translation from spanish language – the white house). Through really awfull medina (lots of baggers, burglers, …) we got to the Hassan II Mosque, the biggest in the world (I think so). Last visit in the a.m. time was at 11 and we have been there at 11:10 so we didn’t manage to get inside. What a pity, maybe next time. Right girls ? In the afternoon (16:41) we took a bus to Marrakesh. Close to Marrakesh we saw for the first time camels on the way. Hurrah. In Marrakesh we were sleeping in the Youth Hostel (for 40 DH, expensive, for the first time (and the last one) separately … no more J ). Main square Djemaa El Fna – in the night. The greatest experience in Morocco together with sleeping in Sahara. Lots of pople, eating, singing, playing …smell, sound, taste .. everything together in the perfect mixcture. Koutoubia Minaret, standind close to the Djemaa (the most perfect Islamic monument in the North Africa).

20th of June – decided to change a hosel, closer to the Jdemaa, we found one af those many directly on the square. Hotel Cecil. (25 DH each,no separate rooms, not so comfortable, but for that price acceptable). The whole day exploring the city, mainly medina – Saadian Tombs (the delicate Granada-style carving, entrance – 10DH), Menara gardens, Royal Palace (for visitors closed). We got lost in the souks (specialized markets in the medina – each proffesion has its own part – blacksmiths, carpenters, dyers, leather, jewellery, coppersmiths, carpets, wool, sheepskins, textiles …), El Badi Palace with the museum – modern moroccean art gallery, Basia Palace (10 DH entrance fee) – we entered here twice, first time with a quarrel, second normally. This palace was built for sultan’s women (sexy bananas –so you remember, Basia??). Basia stayed here, me and Agnieszka left for one of Medersas in the medina and got lost. When we finally found that school, it was already closed. So. Back to hotel and for night experience at Jemaa El Fna again. Mint tea (the a la menthe, whisky marocain - mint according to the arabic language – naanaa the gift of Allah), orange juice (no more then 1,5 DH per glass), dancers, cobra owners (?), water sellers, alibaba, fire dancers …like in the movie. We were also eating there (using hands only, price at about 30DH each). Nothing better. You should see that and be there if you are once in Morocco! Just ask for Djemaa El Fna.

21st of June – taxi to bus station and direction to Essaouira (35DH). Medina in Essaouira is very nice – just red, blue and white. Windy town next to Altantic shore. Lots of young people – german, english,.. . Basia was buying some jewellery for her mother (a long talk with one seller and two americans from Washington in his shop, he invited us for a dinned, but we refused it). We had a sandy picnic on the beach. For girls : Do you remember that pillow in the night, appearing on me from nowhere ?

22nd of June – at 6:45 first bus going back to Marrakesh (35DH) and another one directly to Quarzazate over the High Atlas Mountains. Mounts are without any vegetation, just rocks, very impressive (the hishest peak is Troubkal 4167 m high, I wanted to climbed this mount, but girls didn’t want so … result was : next time). We took a taxi cab to Ait Benhaddou, the nicest casbahs in Morocco. (buildings, fortifications, the whole villages buildt from mud). We slept in a hotel – Al Baraka (on its roof for 5 DH). Very nice owner, he showed us (for free) the old kasbah (I bought there an Tuareg‘s knife, for some alcohol – czech Becherovka, T-shirt ISLA and some small amount of money). There are some families living there (But I think just for tourists). Beautifull night – first in Sahara region. Music and stars (and girls J ).

23rd of June – sunrise in the morning at 4:30. From Ait Benhaddou we took a taxi (first waiting with some french guys, then alone for 5 DH to crossroad and then another one to Quarzazate for 8DH). From Quarzazate with CTM bus to M’hamid (58 DH – prices with baggage, for each piece 5DH, alost everywhere, you can bargain, but …). Through AGDZ (I bought a stripe of matter for turban 10 DH, I didn’t know I will be given similar one from girls, pity), Zagora (first camel trip from here, but M’hamid is more on the south). In this bus we met (we were met) with Debil (it is not his name, our nickname for him) and he and his friend offered us a camel trip from Oulad Driss (about 4 km before M’Hamid) – the place called Carrefour des Caravanes (campsite), palmery village with a shop. It cost us each 200 DH. Perfect night – music, desert (sandy), but we all had a strange feeling from this place. I don’t know why. We were offered private dinner in a friend’s of Debil house. Thez had a satellite – most famous channel is polish Polsat (due to erotic films in the night). Girls were surprised listening to polish language in the middle of desert. The way back to campsite was quite uncomfortable – in the absolute night without our things. Strange.

24th of June – morning 4:30, during the whole day we didn’t do anything, sleeping, eating, taking a shower, for the first time was more than 50 degrees in the shadow. In such as a weather you simply cannot do anything else. Drinking a mint tea. Hot. Tasty. We left for a water to Oulad Driss for tonigh trip and tomorrow’s morning way back to camp. At 17:00 we left this place with a camel blue man and our friend (not Debil) to Sahara desert with camels (each of us has its own animal). The trip was excelent. You can do a 25 km journey with a camel for a day. No more. Interesting There is another very simple camp (just tents) close to the dunes prepared for visitors, some men are taking a care about it. We were given food. Night – imagine. Sahara, stars, talking with Agnieszka, later on with Basia and some Tuaregs. Girls left to sleep earlier and I was given apipe for smoking (kif - hash). I am not smoker but hwo can refuse in such as a place. Immortality.

25th of June – at 5 in the morning was the way back to our camp planned, we had a small delay (later breakfast), a little bit windy. From Carrefour we took a Jeep and went for a short trip to M’Hamid. We visited Hotel Sahara with very nice people – brothers, twins. They offered us another trip with a Jeep (750 DH for all of us for 3 days), but, no money and time means no trip. Maybe even better – close to borders with Algeria. M’Hamid lies 40 km from it. Our first hitchhike was here in M’Hamid, we asked an french man for taking us back to Qarzazate. We took our baggage from the campsite, said farewell and left. In Zagora we were waiting for him (and his wife). There was a sandy storm in Zagora (with RAIN – full of dust and sand, but anyway raining in Sahara - funny). Zagora is not a nice town. Jack (his name) letf us at Qarzazate (we slept in the Hotel Royal for 25 DH each). Dinner with Agnieszka.

26th of June – morning bus to Tinerhir (40 DH) through Skoura. We stopped close to Todra Gorge, beautifull palmeries, with a rose fields (in the spring time), large oasis in the mountains. I wanted to celebtrate my birthday there. There are lots of campsites there, but at the end is canyon with a walls rising about 300m on both sides. Breathtaking place. Just before we slept two night – Hotel El Mansour (each in different hotel for only 10 DH each – terrace). We tried to walk through the canyon to the Auberge, but it was quite a far a way so we gave up. Rocks and palms everywhere, there is a river in the spring time. But in the summer, just small stream. Another unforgetable night with music – our friend (the owner of the hotel) was playing the drums and his brother also, they were teaching me how to play. I was waiting till the noon. Smoking. What ? You know.

27th of June – my bithday (every year J ) we changed a hotel and left for a long walk to the gorge and palmeries along the river Oued Todra. I lost my sunglasses there. Phonecall home. I enjoyed it very much. We almost didn’t do anything important. Just relaxing. In the evening we met 3 Czech guys – one girl and two boys from Breclav. If you will read this story, send me a contact on you, I lost it somewhere. Night was similar to a previous one. Excellent.

28^th of June - in the morning at 8:30 we took “private” taxi service for 150 DH each from Tinerhir directly to Merzouga (we stopped on our way to buy some vegetables and fruits - cheaper and more available then in Sahara). I tried to drive a car (old Renault), but the engine didn’t want to hear my czech orders, so I didn’t succededJ). We finally managed to get to the REAL SAHARA desert (all that staff like sand and terrible heat). At about 19pm we went by feet to find a place to sleep in the desert. Our berber friend went with us and took a small tent, just for case of the desert storm. The sunset in Sahara is something really worth to see if you are in Morocco (or something worth to go to Morocco only). Really amazing. After that we drung a bit (and for the first and last time in Morocco) og their typicall spirit made from figs (Mahia the name - Eau de Vie - the water of the life). Quite warm drink. But we had also gin, so … great evening and the night. Unforgetable for all of us.

29^th of June - morning in the desert. One of my dreams. Not so hot, but beautifull. Silence. Nothing else, just you and the sand and … the god ?? We made some pictures with Basia . Back to our “hotel” and than to Erfoud with a car. On our way we had a puncture. Not so comfortable. Without any water (we drunk all in the desert and in the morning). We thought that berber didn’t make just by luck, by accident for sure, who knows why … and if so. In erfoud we changed the wheel, had a look to the “factory” producing fossils. Berber took us to the Ziz Valley -natural swimming pool (Source Bleue). What to say. Imagine us only europeans (me and two beautifull girls J) and about 300 men, boys - males only, observing all the time and everywhere. But we got used to (girls had to … do you remember Agnieszka my t-shirt?). Afterwards we took a bus to El-Rashidia and said good bye to our berber friend. In El-Rashidia we were waiting for a night bus to Fez. (Really not worth to get in … lots of people, screaming, re-moving places, smet .. can’t even describe, the most teriblle night in Morocco - cheap just for 80 DH)

30^th of June - 6:30am king’s town - Fez.. Taxi to youth Hostel. Qarelling with the owner (or what it was - not reccomeded place, unfriendly, expensive - 50 DH/night). Back to Medina - hotel Cascade - sleeping at the roof for 25 Dh, good enough, quite noisy place. We met again our friends from CR (If you are reading that please contact me. I don’t have you e-mail !!).They recommended us some places to see in Fey ( tanneries, leather shops, …). Before night we had to go back to Villa Neuvelle to withdraw money and there just by luck we met our friend from Braganca (my portugal studies) Eva Markova with her brother. We spent some time with them.

1^st of July - easy day - shopping in Fez. I bought my big drum. (about 250 DH) Girls bought some staff … J We changed the place where we slept. Another hotel in Medina, better one. Clean room for 30 DH. Name …???

2^nd of July - bus to Chefchauen (50DH). It is very nice town. We even didn’t expect it. Blue and white colors. Very nice combinations with wide scale. But bus station … strange one. Later on we learnt that it wasn’t right one, but who cares, bus stopped for us. Bus to Techouan (15DH). Sleeping in the hotel (30DH). Tthis day was the football finals between France and Italy. Everybody here was fans of Iitaly. They loose. It was a pity.

3^rd of July - Morning bus (10DH) to Ceuta (border town in africa with Spain- spanish area). Taxi directly to borded from the town (another 10 DH). Crossing border (you have to fill in some forms). Getting hike from some men. Later he wanted money for that, but we didn’t give him anything. . Boat feirie to Algecira (Europe Spain) cost 2000 PTE (about 400 Kc). In Algeciras we took abus to Pelayo (we knew this place from our previous trip with Joshua during Easter holidays). Good one for hitchhiking to Seville. Just four cars (through Cadiz, Jerez) . Walking in the Seville. We slept in the Youth Hostel (very nice one, but during Easter holiday there was full). Price 2000 PTE (breakfast included).

4^th of July - morning in Seville. Walking out of the city. The worst hitchhiking in Spain. For the whole day we managed to get just to close to Huelva (74 km far away from Seville, direction Portugal). Basia, do you remember the worst bad word you know in your life ?? J We slept close to highway in some cactus field …

5^th of July - We split and girls get a hike first, but there were so nice that the driver stopped for me also and took us

to Amarante (border town with Portugal). Boat to our sweet country. Algarve. Agnieszka left because her friend Pawel

came from Poland to travel with her afterwards. So I stayed with Basia. Hithiking through the whole Algarve. First night

we spent in Tavira on the beach.